Life deep inside the creeks of Sundarbans

(This is one story etched in my memory from a field day in Sundarbans on 17th December, 2019). 

It was a winter day in the Sundarbans. A quiet chill from the sea drifted through the whispering mangrove forest, carrying the scent of salt, mud, and stillness. Murali Sir (Senior IFS officer) and I were returning to Jharkhali from Bonnie Camp. Leaving the wide expanse of the Bidya River, our boat turned left into the narrow embrace of the Suryamukhi Creek—one of those creeks that holds life in abundance and danger in equal measure.

The tide was low. Vast stretches of muddy creek bed lay exposed, glistening under the pale winter sun. This brief window of retreating water invited life to emerge. Spotted deers were stepping cautiously along the banks, wild boars rummaged through the mud, whistling ducks dotted the shallows, and countless birds and animals revealed themselves, as if the forest had momentarily lifted its veil.

Midway through the creek, we spotted a small wooden boat—humble and quiet—carrying a husband and wife. As a routine habit, I approached the fisherman to check his permit. He held a valid authorization to fish within the forest block. While the husband tended to his nets with practiced patience, the wife on the other end of the boat was completely absorbed in preparing food for him.

Their boat was conveying a simple story of survival: prawns resting in a small bowl, crabs packed in ice—fresh catches of the day. Strands of small fasha fish were pierced with thread and tied to the roof of the boat, drying slowly in the winter air, swaying gently with every movement of the creek.

During my two-year stint in the Sundarbans, I had seen many such boats—husbands and wives venturing deep into the mangrove labyrinth, often for three or four days at a stretch. These journeys were not adventures; they were acts of necessity.

The couples are fishing in a place where a tiger could leap from the forest without warning if they step onto land, and where a crocodile could rise silently from the water if they lost their balance. Yet, the couple remained calm, bound by more than just work. They supported each other not only by sharing labour, but also by facing all the odds around them.

From dawn to dusk, their lives revolved around fishing, cooking and helping each other. In that fragile boat, floating between water and forest, they understood each other’s silences, fears, and needs. Life had taught them a simple lesson: survival in the Sundarbans is never solitary—it is always together.

While coming back to home from the trip, life of couple lingered in my thoughts. In today’s urban life, husbands and wives rarely struggle for food or shelter. With comfort and time at their disposal, they often search for reasons to argue. Yet here, in the heart of the Sundarbans, a couple fought against hunger, wilderness, and death—side by side—without complaint, without conflict. 

Amidst the tidal mangrove jungle, existence is not questioned—it is lived, side by side.

 

Herobhanga block of Mangrove forest between Bidya and Matla river. The red circle is the place where fishing couple were spotted.

Murali Sir (My senior IFS officer)

A lone boat in the Jungle

Wife cooking food for her fishing husband

Chapra Chingri (Prawn) - Catch of the day

Fasha fish kept on the roof of the boat for drying

Barn Visitors

Its been nearly three years, I wrote my last blog. Lot has happened in this gap. Got transferred twice during this time. There are many ups and down in official and personal front. My friend Kajari biswas has been constantly prodding me to write. Finally, I am able to write that too about bird which belongs to the same order which Sparrow belongs. All pictures used in this writing are taken from Samsung S6 mobile. Here are the chippings of Gubbi.... 

I thank the medical shop owners Rudra Narayan Agarwala, Shiva Kumar Agarwala and Viresh Agarwala for allowing to take pictures of Barn swallow and providing information about the bird.

After transferred from Birbhum, I settled down in Dow-hill as a Director of a century old training institute. Dow-hill is small place situated in the midst of cloud on top of a mountain in Eastern Himalayas. The place well known for evil spirits and listed as most haunted place in India. For marketing I had come down to Kurseong town regularly, which is 5 km downhill. Kurseong is a small and beautiful town. The whole market is situated on both sides Siliguri-Darjeeling road. The market is unique for having heritage toy train track along side the road. The Kurseong is also known as Switzerland of India.

In a small town, when you walk regularly, you will get to know every one at every step. Whenever I visited the town, a visit to Ashok agarwala and their sons Tanuj and Nikhil was must. They were of great help in Kurseong. Dhiraj and Vikas were the other two, who are at one phone call reach in Kurseong. I use to regularly purchase medicines from Hanutram Lekhram Medical store. Two Brothers Rudra Narayan Agarwala and Shiva Kumar Agarwal and Viresh Agarwal (son of Shiva Kumar) were the owners of the medical store. After two three visits to the medical shop, very soon they became close to me. One day while I was standing in medical store to purchase medicine, two birds flew above my head. At first sight, with their deep forked tail, I could identify them as Swallow. For further identification I took picture through my S6 Samsung mobile. Soon, Viresh Agarwala said there is nest of these birds in the store. A cup shaped mud nest was found near to ceiling. One of the parent was incubating in the nest. Viresh was kind enough to provide a stool to stand and take picture of the bird from a close distance. After detailed enquiry Viresh agarwala told me that these birds swarm the entire Kurseong Bazaar in the month of February. They build nests in building throughout the Bazaar, raise new nestlings and leave the place by August. To his medical store this pair of swallow is coming from last three years. In coming days, I closely followed these birds, which ultimately led me to the world of Barn visitors.

Hanutram-Lekhram medical store is one of the oldest medical stores in entire north Bengal. Hanutram-Lekhram are the two brothers after whom this medical store is named after. Initially, it was opened as general store in the year 1865 by by Shri. Chanduram Agarwala, son of Shri. Hanuthram. In 1941, the general store was converted in to a medical store. The birds have been coming to this store for many years, probably for more than centuries. The birds were putting dropping below the nest, which was creating problem for the owners in day-to-day business. Some years back the owners decided to place a paper board below the nest to prevent dropping from directly falling on the customers. The birds stopped coming for some years. As Viresh told the birds have started coming again from last two years. This time they have built nest in different place. I became a regular visitor of the medical store. For documentation, clicked pictures from my Samsung S6 mobile. Initially, the birds were restless when i got closer for pictures. After sometime they accorded permission for clicking pics, unless I got too closer. After going through the literature, I could identify the bird as Barn Swallow (Hirundro rustica guttaralis). In breeding season it is distributed from Nepal to Assam in Eastern Himalyas. Another race of Barn Swallow H rustica rustica  is distributed from Baluchistan to Nepal. Both these species spend their winter in the subcontinent, where it is difficult to distinguish them unless in the hand. In 2009 during my IGNFA tour to Mandi in Himachal I had taken some picture of Hirundo rustica rustica. One shop keeper in Mandi offered a stool to me take picture of the Barn Swallow. The Mandi was similar to Kurseong. Both are old towns. In both the places, rustica and guttaralis races of swallow, visit in thousands and build nest in shops and houses. Mandi is in Western Himalayas, whereas Kurseong in Eastern Himalayas. In both the places, shopkeepers are kind enough to allow me to click pics by offering stool. After wintering in Subcontinent, these birds swarm the towns in Himalayas in February. Build nest and leave the Himalayas by August. Building of nest by these birds in the shops and houses is considered as good omen by the local people.

Barn Swallows are found in Europe also. These species nest in Barn (Barn means stable or granary in English). Hence, they are know as Barn Swallow. In India also, they nest in houses and market places near humans to get protection for their young ones from predation.

I started visited the medical store regularly once a week, not for the medicine but for the birds. Viresh Agarwala showed me a small opening made in the shutter to allow the birds to come in and go out. He was disappointed that the birds are not using the opening. Even though Viresh created opening in the door shutter, the birds doesn't know what is outside the opening. They will not use it unless they feel safe. During my diploma training in Wildlife Institute of India, Dehradun we were taught in one of the class that the elephants in Rajaji were not using the underpass bridges. Then, scientist tried putting elephant dung under the bridges. after which elephants started passing through that area. I explained this to Viresh and asked him to smear the dropping of the swallow to the the door shutter around the opening. By doing so, the swallow will get convinced that this opening can be used as some other swallow has used it. To my wonder Viresh told me in my next visit that the birds have started using the opening in the door shutter. He got relieved that birds doesn't need to wait in the morning for them to open the shutter. 

By the end of April, the new ones were chattering and  flying through out the shop. In spite of day-to-day busy business work, the shop keeper witnessed the new beginning young Barn Swallows life. The attention of most of the customer purchasing the medicine were drawn towards them by these young ones. Apart from selling the medicine, the shop was distributing small smile medicine to every customer. After a week, when I went Viresh told "the birds have gone". Viresh said, the shop is empty without them, we have to wait till next February. For almost a month I didn't go to medical store. In June, when I again went for purchasing some medicine, Viresh said birds have come again and given birth to new chicks. There were five chicks in the nest, yet to open eyes. Are the pairs again gave birth to new brood? or These were new pairs? For answer I consulted, Shri. Dhananjay Mohan Sir, IFS Addl. PCCF Wildlife in Uttarakhand. He has taught bird watching to most of the IFS officers in India. He opined that being a Passerine, like House sparrow, if the food is available in plenty, the barn swallow might brood two times a year. The Google baba confirmed that Barn swallow broods twice year. By June last week, the second brood grew up and left store. The young ones grew up to join the flock of swallows, which forage insects in the open fields and roost on the wires in busy market of Kurseong. By August, the swallows left Kurseong and the market people started bracing themselves for the winter. The Kurseong market and its people waits for the winter to pass and Barn visitors to arrive with summer.

Kurseong Railway Station.

Heritage toy train engine.

Kurseong market in the morning.

Hanutram Lekhram Medical Store, one of the oldest medical store in North Bengal.

Original Medical store building, which was destroyed in fire.

Antique clock Seth Thomos clock made in USA at Hanutram Lekhram medical store.

Shiva Kumar Agarwala looking after the accounts work medical store.

Rudra Narayan Agarwala (left) and Viresh Agarwala (Right).

 Barn Swallow (Hirundro rustica guttaralis), first time when I saw in medical store.

Barn swallow near its egg.

Barn swallow incubating in the busy shop at night. By building nest near to the humans, Barn swallow gets protection from predation.

For many years, Swallow has been building nest at this place. The dropings from this point was directly falling on the customer, which was causing problem in day-to-day business.The owner placed the paper board below the nest to prevent dropings from falling directly below on the customer. The swallow has changed the place of nesting now.

 Parent Barn swallows feeding young ones.

Nestlings seeking food....

 Parent Barn swallows feeding young ones.

Disturbed parent Bar swallows at medical store.

Nestlings of second brood.

Parent swallows watching the shopkeeper.

 Grown up young ones, ready to fly....

 Grown up young ones, ready to fly....

Young ones fling all over the medical store.

 Barn swallow with nest in sweet shop.

 Abandoned nest at Gas shop.

 Barn swallows at Condiment shop.

 Barn swallows at Condiment shop.

Mandi, old town in the foot hills of himalayas in Himachal Pradesh (photo taken on 20.04.2009 at 07.49 pm).

Adult Barn Swallow (Hirundro rustica rustica) at Mandi (photo taken on 20.04.2009 at 07.05 pm).

Young Barn Swallow (Hirundro rustica rustica) at Mandi (photo taken on 20.04.2009 at 07.06 pm).

 Barn Swallow (Hirundro rustica rustica) at Mandi (photo taken on 20.04.2009 at 07.38 pm).

 Barn Swallow (Hirundro rustica rustica) at Mandi (photo taken on 20.04.2009 at 07.40 pm).

Barn Swallow (Hirundro rustica rustica) at Mandi (photo taken on 20.04.2009 at 07.39 pm).

Encounter with mammoth....

In childhood I have heard many stories of close encounter and near escape from a fight with sloth bear. As I grew up have seen many such encounters with Lions, Elephants etc. on Discovery and National Geographic Channel. After I started to wander in wild, I have heard many such stories. Today, I will be narrating one such encounter of mine with one of the surviving mammoth on earth, The Rhinoceros.

Novermber 2012; to check the progress of preparation for wildlife day celebration, I went to Falakata from Madarihat. After progress was checked Instead of direct road to Madarihat, I chose the jungle road. I decided to drive the vehicle. On the way back two of my range officers Buddhadeb and Ranjan Talukdar were narrating me the story of Rhino attacking the vehicle of Assistant Wildlife Warden long back. Listening to stories, I drove into tall dense grassland of Moyurdanga. Moyurdanga as name says, derived its name from mayur (peacock). Fertile alluvial soil of Torsa has made the grasses here taller than trees of arid zone. Rhino density is good in this habitat of Moyurdanga, because of the perennial Buri (old) Torsa River. Rhino has attacked and killed many people in this patch. Dense and tall saccharaum grasses are perfect situation for close encounter with four ton mammoth. Oblivion of these facts, I took a slow turn. A mother with calf in the below picture was grazing on the road. On seeing the rhino I stopped the vehicle. Within seconds, the mother came rushing towards the vehicle. Stopped meters away, sniffed “dare not to come near my baby”; the mother returned and vanished with calf in to the grassy glade. My range officers laughed and said rhinos of Jaldapara like Assistant Wildlife Wardens vehicle. After a deep breath started my vehicle and dropped my range officers to their houses in Jaldapara.

Took game road from Jaldapara to Madarihat. After crossing the Jaldapara tower a herd of Gaur was confronted. Owing to the absence of Tiger the Gaur number is increasing at rapid rate in Jaldapara. Sighting of large herd of Gaurs are very common in Jaldapara. Within few hundred meters after crossing Gaurs, a small rhino was seen on the road. I immediately stopped and took my camera to capture the rhino. Upon seeing our vehicle it went inside the sachharum glade. Samaresh, my driver said it is a sub-adult. My sixth sense said it’s a calf and mother must be around it. Holding camera in right hand slowly steered the vehicle ahead. I might have moved ten meter, behind the Sachharum grasses the mother rhino was grazing and the calf, which had already seen us was nervous. Holding camera on the door I was aiming for a shoot. The mother rushed immediately charging towards my vehicle. “Sir, return leejiye” samaresh said hurriedly. Even before I realizing the situation, the four ton mammoth came running near the front right wheel. It was just a meter away from me. I could see its teeth, nose and horn clearly. With its nose and horn, twice it gave two strong powerful hit to my vehicle. Twice, vehicle went up and came down. Rhino retreated after two powerful pushes. For a moment my heart beat had stopped. With little more powerful hit the vehicle would have toppled easily. To my fortune we were safe. The mud guard had come out and there was a small dent to the metallic body. Rhino nose had bruised the outside edge of the vehicle. The vehicle would have toppled, if rhino would have been able to put its entire nose and horn below the vehicle. I was holding camera just a meter away from the rhino. Even before pressing the camera button, the rhino was out of scene.

After taking deep breaths for two minutes I drove back to home. The day was exceptional as rhino attacked us twice within a gap of half an hour. Rhinos readily attack when they feel threatened. As I collected information later on, the mothers, which attacked my vehicle were under stress from the breeding males. The breeding males try to kill the calf, so that they can mate with mother. Mothers will be protective of their calf until calf will be weaned i.e till 4 to 5 years. After this incidence my admiration for the Rhinos has doubled.

Below is the pictures which I took on my way. The picture of Rhino, which attacked vehicle is missing as I could not press the button during that awesome incidence. But, it is still afresh in my memory.

In Moyurdanga when rhino mother gave mock charge.

Mother rhino before disappearing into the grasses.

Calm and beautiful River Buri (old) Torsa.

Mayur (Pea cock) on the way.

Herd of Gaurs minutes before the vehicle was attacked Rhino.

Herd of Gaurs minutes before the vehicle was attacked Rhino.

The damaged vehicle. The rhino nose has just rubbed the outer edge. Things would have been different if rhino was able to put its horn below the vehicle.

Dent in the vehicle and a small crack.

Planting fig tree to create a small sanctuary

          With shrinking forest cover, Planting a seedling as become popular  slogan everywhere. Lot of money is spent on afforestation. How many of the seedlings planted grows to become fruit bearing trees? Many die naturally, some are cut by villagers for the firewood or will get damaged for one or the other reason. It would have wonderful if fully grown trees are planted directly in the field. Many trials have been done in this  direction. But, its not possible to do in mass scale.

         As part of IFS training, during our field visit in Bandipur, I remember Dr. A.J.T. Jonhsingh saying that the forest department should take up planting of fig plants and other fodder species in wildlife areas. But, raising nursery of fig plants is very difficult. If small fig plants are planted in forest they will immediately be browsed by herbivores and will not be allowed to come up. The fact is that fig trees are abode for wildlife. One will always find variety birds on the fig trees. Fruiting fig trees feed langurs, squirrels, hornbills, and many other wildlife. Wasps and figs symbiotic is well proven scientifically. Removing one fig species from floral treasury will lead to the disappearance of one wasp species from the faunal diversity. Figs are important key stone species, Disappearance of which will lead to disappearance of many other species. Planting one fig tree is equivalent  to planting many trees. Fig tree is a small sanctuary for the wide array wildlife. But, planting a fig seedling will take many years to become a fruit bearing tree. Is there any way to do a chooo mantar magic to get big fig tree around your area in short time? I have tried one way to plant fig trees. It may not be the best way, but will definitely help in supporting many  wildlife.

          This small experiment of planting peepal tree was done during my range training in Apalchand range in Kathambari (west bengal state). Peepal trees had grown on the compound of my range complex. This was detrimental to the compound. In the month of January, 2012 I thought of getting rid of it for the safety of compound. I remembered my teacher smt. Radhamani, who was collecting fig plants grown on the building for her Bonsai collection. She told me that fig grown on the buildings are old and best suited for the bonsai which gives the look of old tree. Also, it is easier to transfer into the pot. This encouraged me to translocate the Peepal tree from compound. Below are the few snaps of translocating the peepal tree.

          My staffs inspecting the peepal tree on the compound. Removing Peepal tree looked simple, initially. Once, the work was started; things started getting complicated, similar to how the prop roots of Peepal trees had formed a knot of web. The roots had penetrated the crevices in the compound in an uncanny way. Reaching out those roots to cut was too difficult.

       
          Shri. Bhidhan chand Dey, Forest guard cutting the roots of the peepal tree, which had penetrated the shop adjacent to compound. Initially we thought the branch which staff is cutting in the picture can removed with most of the roots attached to it. We were able to remove only two thread of roots attached to it.

           Shri. Abbas ali katham, cutting another peepal tree. The roots were attached to the compound so strongly that at one time the  whole compound wall was about to fall.

          After one and half hour of struggle, we were able to remove the Peepal tree. It was decided to spit this into two tree to plant separately. Even though tree had so much of roots on the compound we were able extract less than 5 % of it.

          You can see how much root came with the tree. I was doubtful of the survival of the tree. My staff said, it can establish. Staff know it by experience. But, only time can teach me.

          

          Choo... mantar!!!!1 the tall and main part of Peepal tree felled was planted behind range office. This picture was taken in May, after four months of planting. After the winter fall of leaves, the tree had produced new fresh leaves. I think this one must be about 10 year old. We can't be sure of planted seedling growing into a fruit bearing tree. But, this individual will surely start feeding birds within next few years. A staff who have been transferred out of this range before six months, in his next visit will surely wonder how such big tree growed within short time.

The second tree planted behind my residence. 

          The third one planted on the west side of the range. After completion of my range training in Kathambari, I have been posted  as Assistant Wildlife warden, Jaldapara national park. Before taking up the new assignment to protect wildlife of Jaldapara, I had the satisfaction of creating three small sanctuaries for wildlife in Kathambari. I hope to see an Oriental pied hornbill on one of these Peepal trees, when I visit Kathambari next time.